Saturday 30 July 2011

Day 8: The Summer Palace 颐和园 & Yang Da Ye Steamboat 羊大爷涮肉

We took the train to The Summer Palace. We exited where the sign read 'North Gate'. We were quite lost when at the exit though. Had to ask one of the local who happened to be a tourist as well.

There were lots of tourguides who would approach you to ask if you want a tourguide. We engaged one at RMB 60 (S$12) after our experience at the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven. We felt that we did not understand the significance of the structures and thought we would do better with a guide.
Suzhou Street Market
Emperor Qianlong had a water town market erected to amuse himself, his many wives and mother.

The guide said that there was no need to buy the full ticket which granted access to all the attractions as most attractions were empty or not worth entering as they were under renovation. Suzhou Street Market was one of them and she pointed out to us that it was empty.
First, we climbed the Hill of Longevity (万寿山). Almost died.

It stood at a height of 58.5m. According to the guide, the Hill was erected to celebrate the 60th birthday of Emperor Qianlong's mother. The ancient people believed that most people could live only till the age of 60, so it was decreed that the Hill could not exceed or meet the mark of 60m - to signify that the emperor's mother had not reached the limit yet.
A structure destroyed by the Eight-Nation Alliance (八国联军)

The Eight-Nation Alliance was a military alliance formed by Austria-Hungary, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Russia, the United Kingdom, and the United States to suppress China's anti-foreign Boxers.

The Alliance not only brought an end to the Boxers, but also plummeted the Old and New Summer Palaces as well as ravaged the whole capital.
The Summer Palace is an area where positive fengshui surrounds. It is ordered that no structure around the Summer Palace can be built taller than it, lest it obstructs or destroys the fengshui.

These little buddha heads were missing. Two versions of explanation:
1) The children tourists plucked the heads away, which the tour guide felt was more believable.
2) The Eight-Nation Alliance thought these were made of gold and thinking that the head of the buddha is the most precious, they plucked them off.

 Imperial Courtyard 皇家四合院

Where imperial food is served and female waitresses dress up in Princess get-up

Also an attraction that the guide said was not worth going as the dishes were ridiculously priced. Obama and Jiang Zemin dined there though.

The Imperial Courtyard oversees Lake Kunming (昆明湖). Tourists could sail on the Lake but by the time the short tour with the guide ended, we were beat and just wanted to get out of the place.

 'Longevity' 寿 written with just one complete stroke. Within the character is written '寿比南山不老松', comparing one's longevity to the greatness of the South Mountain and pine tree, both deemed long-living.


 We saw this 'You're welcome to visit the emperor's throne'.

And we realised we were tricked

Photo-taking: RMB 30 for one position or one set of dressing
The salespeople would persuade you to allow your family to do two, totalling RMB 60 for each person.

 Long Corridor 长廊

The longest corridor in the Guinness World Record.
 On each beam is painted a different picture. 14, 000 pictures in all.
Amazingly, the colours remained vibrant even after many years.
 The stories mainly come from Romance of the Three Kingdoms (三国演义)

We were brought to this gallery where we saw the transformation of Cloisonne (景泰蓝) - from raw to made. Empress Cixi (seated) was crazy about Cloisonne and decreed that no one except the royal family could wear Cloisonne.

It was the first time I came across Jing Tai Lan or Cloisonne.

Definition from the net:
Jing Tai Lan is a combination of Chinese traditional bronze and china arts, paintings, carving arts and foreign enamel techniques.

Jing Tai Lan is also known as Fa Lang (珐琅)
The process of making vases using Jing Tai Lan
Marble Boat

Emperor Qianlong built this boat in 1755. It was destroyed by the Eight-Nation Alliance when they plummeted The Summer Palace in 1860. It was rebuilt by Empress Cixi in the 1893 in western style when she celebrated her 50th birthday.

The Marble Boat is not entirely made of marble. The body is made of wood but painted to look like marble. The only marble components are the two wheels by the side of the boat.

An old saying goes, "water can carry the boat as well as capsize it" (水能载舟,亦能覆舟) meaning that water symbolizing the common people can uphold the emperor and they can overthrow him. Emperor Qianlong had the huge Marble Boat fastened in the water to indicate the steadfast rule of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

Stained glass, a western feature, of the Marble Boat
We asked the guide for her recommendation on a nice place to have our lunch. She asked her husband to drive us to a nearby area for mutton steamboat for RMB 20.

Decor that greeted us at the door
The table setting
They feature many local stars who I do not recognise
The sauce with peanut scent
Do you read the character 'Lamb'(羊)?

Spiciness was out for us so we were recommended to this 'traditional stock' (传统锅底). Now that I am typing the review for this shop and looking at the receipt, I realised it was indeed plain water (纯净水). To think we were wondering how come the soup tasted so bland!
Mutton (羊肉筋涮肉) in small portion RMB 12
How it looks after being dipped into the steamboat

The meat was so thinly sliced that the moment I dipped it into the steaming soup, it broke away from my chopsticks and swam in the steamboat!

And it tasted heavenly together with the sauce! I have never loved mutton that much! Now I know why God always asked for a lamb as a sacrifice!
Buns (糖火烧) RMB 4
My father ate them. He said they were hard and 'not nice'. I didn't try them.
More mutton (御品上脑) in small portion RMB 13, vermicelli (粉丝) RMB 6 and vegetables RMB 8

We preferred the latter mutton as it had more fats and tasted more tender.
Total bill: RMB 95 (S$ 19)! Is that cheap or what?!!

Was it a good eating experience? Definitely.
I never knew mutton could be this tender and soft. If I ever return to Beijing, I would very much want to go back to the shop again! One thing to note is the shop does not serve rice, but we would take the vermicelli anytime!

Address:
羊大爷涮肉
北京市, 海淀区, 万泉河路,12号
Tel: 010-62653878

Yang Da Ye
12 Wanquan Helu, Haidian District

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